thanks alex. i'm going to do some more with ink since that one's on crappy paper (it warped). I'll try to update my site on a regular basis with drawings/paintings. I need to get some canvas and i'll be ready to roll.
Oh, and don't sweat the (TM) thing when it comes to the 4 of us on the blogger.
Right on! The shapes (black shirt, orange beard, & gray trapezoid) really mesh well with the pen work! Golden makes an absorbent ground that is receptive to ink. This work would look really good on panel with an eggshell finish. Panel (or mdf) would also be less prone to creasing, yellowing and dog-earing, also.
Link to Golden's product sheet on their Absorbent Ground. I saw a grad student at Tyler use it. She was doing large works with chinese/sumi/charcoal ink. The ink took to the ground no differently than it would have on paper. Using it would also give an option to erase that you otherwise wouldn't have with ink on paper... don't like a section?.. resurface it!
GOLDEN is the shee-it! they have some of the best mediums too. I used to put their self-leveling gel on everything but my cap'n crunch! i will look for this absorbant ground at my favorite Künstlerbedarf.
(i love how some german words sound like you are throwing up when you say them.)
it's cool. i like the reduced color palette, do you really have a bright orange beard right now? have you had that since i last saw you? no, right? i can't remember. I like the point of view being from the paper if it were lying flat on the table in front of you. The paper is in that way almost looking up at you while your looking into the mirror. That is an interesting idea, exploring the artist as the view from the work. I guess you could say that about a lot of self portraits, but this one struck me as almost immediately feeling like the vantage point of the art gazing up at its creator.
Technically speaking, I think Pete's right. I really like the balance of pen and ink and would also recommend something that acts more like paper than canvas, this absorbant ground stuff sounds like it might be worth looking into. if you can't find that, a lot of art store's carry clayboard or gesso board. though usually it's a bit pricey and doesn't come in much larger sizes (say, if you want to work bigger than say 14 x 17").
i dunno. Pete or Jason you've probably worked with those surfaces before what did you guy's think about geeso-board or clayboard. any good?
yeah, i'm curious about this "absorbant ground" that you speak of Pete.
Well, gesso board is for painter moms and freshmen that don't want to go to Home Depot to buy masonite. You pay the same price premium that you would for, say, a premade canvas. Yuck. I dunno about this clay board, though clay is somewhat absorbent and has a bit of tooth to it, so it might be a really interesting surface to work on. Maybe a little like velvet? For a panel surface I'd recommend buying either half inch mdf or untreated masonite and surfacing them yourself. There's some pre-treated shelving at Lowes that I've been meaning to try out, though...
"do you really have a bright orange beard right now?"
yes Ryan. I have a bright orange beard that glows in the dark.
i actually just get lazy during the winter months, but i try to convince myself that it will somehow keep me warm as i walk through this windy ass frigid city.
"Well, gesso board is for painter moms and freshmen that don't want to go to Home Depot to buy masonite."
Without a doubt.
Clay board is an ok surface but if I remember correctly is delicate and has a tendency to chip when it gets wet as when you are throwing around lots of washes.
Try to get acid free masonite instead of the construction grade stuff if you are spending money, though I pick up a lot of materials as scraps from shops and dumpster diving. There are even some construction pressboards that have paper glued to them for that great craft paper surface/colour.
You may want to try good old cheap gesso as a primer instead of pricey golden mediums. The only drawback to it is that you must be very patient and a bit particular in applying many layers and sanding them smooth. Depends a lot on what you are applying your ink with (brush, metal tip, bamboo pen, etc.) I gesso a lot of boards these days and have it down to something of a science but it takes a few days when you take into account drying times. I can elaborate if anyone cares.
Does anyone know a good priming material/technique for sheets of aluminium? My dumpster diving adventures are taking me into strange new surface worlds!
"Depends a lot on what you are applying your ink with (brush, metal tip, bamboo pen, etc.)"
I've been using a bamboo brush & a pen. I'm going to start looking into this because last night i had a piece of paper (lightly gessoed) that didn't really want to cooperate with the brush/ink. That's what i get for using a piece of paper from a class i had in 1998.
As far as I know, you don't need to add a ground to aluminum/steel because it isn't in danger of being eaten by the paint. What is does need is tooth for the paint to hold onto, or else you'll just be making paint pancakes. So use sand paper to rough up the portion you're going to paint on.
12 comments:
thanks alex. i'm going to do some more with ink since that one's on crappy paper (it warped). I'll try to update my site on a regular basis with drawings/paintings. I need to get some canvas and i'll be ready to roll.
Oh, and don't sweat the (TM) thing when it comes to the 4 of us on the blogger.
Right on!
The shapes (black shirt, orange beard, & gray trapezoid) really mesh well with the pen work!
Golden makes an absorbent ground that is receptive to ink. This work would look really good on panel with an eggshell finish. Panel (or mdf) would also be less prone to creasing, yellowing and dog-earing, also.
Tell me more about this "absorbent ground" of which you speak...
Link to Golden's product sheet on their Absorbent Ground.
I saw a grad student at Tyler use it. She was doing large works with chinese/sumi/charcoal ink. The ink took to the ground no differently than it would have on paper.
Using it would also give an option to erase that you otherwise wouldn't have with ink on paper... don't like a section?.. resurface it!
GOLDEN is the shee-it! they have some of the best mediums too. I used to put their self-leveling gel on everything but my cap'n crunch!
i will look for this absorbant ground at my favorite Künstlerbedarf.
(i love how some german words sound like you are throwing up when you say them.)
sorry! i didn't comment on the drawing before.
it's cool. i like the reduced color palette, do you really have a bright orange beard right now? have you had that since i last saw you? no, right? i can't remember.
I like the point of view being from the paper if it were lying flat on the table in front of you. The paper is in that way almost looking up at you while your looking into the mirror. That is an interesting idea, exploring the artist as the view from the work. I guess you could say that about a lot of self portraits, but this one struck me as almost immediately feeling like the vantage point of the art gazing up at its creator.
Technically speaking, I think Pete's right. I really like the balance of pen and ink and would also recommend something that acts more like paper than canvas, this absorbant ground stuff sounds like it might be worth looking into. if you can't find that, a lot of art store's carry clayboard or gesso board. though usually it's a bit pricey and doesn't come in much larger sizes (say, if you want to work bigger than say 14 x 17").
i dunno. Pete or Jason you've probably worked with those surfaces before what did you guy's think about geeso-board or clayboard. any good?
yeah, i'm curious about this "absorbant ground" that you speak of Pete.
Well, gesso board is for painter moms and freshmen that don't want to go to Home Depot to buy masonite. You pay the same price premium that you would for, say, a premade canvas. Yuck.
I dunno about this clay board, though clay is somewhat absorbent and has a bit of tooth to it, so it might be a really interesting surface to work on. Maybe a little like velvet?
For a panel surface I'd recommend buying either half inch mdf or untreated masonite and surfacing them yourself.
There's some pre-treated shelving at Lowes that I've been meaning to try out, though...
"do you really have a bright orange beard right now?"
yes Ryan. I have a bright orange beard that glows in the dark.
i actually just get lazy during the winter months, but i try to convince myself that it will somehow keep me warm as i walk through this windy ass frigid city.
"Well, gesso board is for painter moms and freshmen that don't want to go to Home Depot to buy masonite."
Without a doubt.
Clay board is an ok surface but if I remember correctly is delicate and has a tendency to chip when it gets wet as when you are throwing around lots of washes.
Try to get acid free masonite instead of the construction grade stuff if you are spending money, though I pick up a lot of materials as scraps from shops and dumpster diving. There are even some construction pressboards that have paper glued to them for that great craft paper surface/colour.
You may want to try good old cheap gesso as a primer instead of pricey golden mediums. The only drawback to it is that you must be very patient and a bit particular in applying many layers and sanding them smooth. Depends a lot on what you are applying your ink with (brush, metal tip, bamboo pen, etc.) I gesso a lot of boards these days and have it down to something of a science but it takes a few days when you take into account drying times. I can elaborate if anyone cares.
Does anyone know a good priming material/technique for sheets of aluminium? My dumpster diving adventures are taking me into strange new surface worlds!
"Depends a lot on what you are applying your ink with (brush, metal tip, bamboo pen, etc.)"
I've been using a bamboo brush & a pen. I'm going to start looking into this because last night i had a piece of paper (lightly gessoed) that didn't really want to cooperate with the brush/ink. That's what i get for using a piece of paper from a class i had in 1998.
As far as I know, you don't need to add a ground to aluminum/steel because it isn't in danger of being eaten by the paint. What is does need is tooth for the paint to hold onto, or else you'll just be making paint pancakes. So use sand paper to rough up the portion you're going to paint on.
Oh... also oil sticks much better to metals than acrylic.
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